Diner Maison at Ormeggio Saturday 11 June 2016


The promises for the day were (to paraphrase)

Executive Chef Alessandro Pavoni, Head Chef Victor Moya and their talented team will utilise both new and traditional techniques of cooking, along with the finest produce, to deliver ‘the Ormeggio experience’.

Alessandro who has been awarded two Hats from the Good Food Guide, who  has revisited traditional Italian dishes, flavours and ingredients for our members and guests, having reworked these traditions in a  new and innovative way, will serve an amazing six course menu, a reflection of his Italian up-bring and passion for the art of the table.

During the luncheon Alessandro will personally guide us through his culinary creations.

For the select group basking in the warmth of a perfect Sydney Winter’s day I can categorically give a big tick to all three of these promises.

Alessandro was on hand at all stages of the luncheon to talk about his dishes and our smiles of appreciation for this courtesy widened as we tasted his creations.

Alessandro’s promises translated into the array of balanced and interesting dishes. I am not going to review each of the ten individual dishes presented rather to talk about how this kitchen revisits the traditional dishes.

I suppose that dish that was the delight for me was described as ‘campania, pomodoro and basilico’. Here we had ingredients deconstructed, subjected to alchemic procedures in the kitchen and then presented in a form that delighted, and titillated and which also displaying flavour! To be honest I am getting tired of being presented with laboratory inspired creations on a plate that don’t taste of anything. This was not the case here. For that I give a big unreconstructed Bravo!

And a big bravo to the selection of wine. Following a welcoming Prosecco – to my mind one of the most underrated of wine classes – we moved to a 2015 Pinot Grigio, Tiefenbrunner from the Sudtirol-Alto Adige. This vineyard is well regarded and this Pinot Grigio, to my mind, initially had too much of a mouthful – someone said it reminded him of a big blowsy Australian Chardonnay – but as the wine warmed up it turned into something pleasant. It matched the food.

The red was a Monte Antico 2011 – Sangiovese, with some Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. I agree with James Suckling’s review;  ‘This is real Tuscan wine at an excellent price. It’s fresh and bright with dried cherry and citrus fruit aromas and flavours. Long and vivid finish. Drink and enjoy.’ On the day I felt that this was a very clever wine with a great balance.

Both the Pinot Grigio and red are not hugely expensive and constitute excellent value for money.

The verdict on the day – Alessandro and his team well deserve the accolades they are receiving and it was a fantastic Chaîne day. It was a day marked by a generousity of spirit.

It was lovely also to formally welcome Janet Bergman into the Chaîne and to remember Andrew, Tommie and Roy.

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John D C Studdert
Echanson d’Australie La Chaîne des Rôtisseurs


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